Nobody was around to welcome me with the traditional Hawaiian lei when I set foot for the first time at the Honolulu International Airport in late August 2006. But my face brightened somewhat when I noticed that the taxi driver looked and spoke with a familiar accent. "Are you Filipino?" I inquired tentatively and with anxiety in my voice. "No sir, I am Ilocano", he replied while glancing at me with a smile in his rear-view mirror. I smiled back, secretly amused at the reply.
Although born to Tagalog-speaking parents, I learned how to speak Ilocano from my neighborhood playmates during my growing-up years in Ramos Street, San Jose, Nueva Ecija. Not having spoken it since I left home as a teenager, I bravely engaged my taxi driver in the best Ilocano I could muster then.
For the next 15 minutes or so until we reached my destination, Salvador my driver had gotten me to tell him in a mixture of my Ilocano and English the latest news back in the Philippines. He in return told me how he has lived in Honolulu for the past ten years and that he has sent his children, all four of them, to school due to sheer hard work in driving a cab that he already owned.
Succeeding encounters
I thought that that was to be my first and last encounter with Ilocanos. I was mistaken. It did not take long for me to learn that Ilocanos comprise the majority of Filipinos in Honolulu. Most of them are in Filipino-dominated communities like Kalihi (where I stayed) and Waipahu, and to a certain extent, Ewa Beach and Salt Lake.
To my pleasant surprise, I found them in supermarkets manning the check-out counters, in fastfood chains, and in department stores – always willing to help a fellow-Ilocano who was still learning the Hawaiian way of life. Then there were, too, my favorite carinderia (small market eateries) vendors at Maunakea market who served me the best Ilocano dishes such as pinakbet, dinengdeng, inabraw, and broiled catfish whenever I got tired of hospital food or chinese take out and started to crave for the familiar home-cooked meals.
I had very pleasant dealings with Ilocanos too in government offices as when I applied for my social security number and, believe it or not, in churches as priests. I would learn later that roughly 30% of the catholic clergy in the Diocese of Honolulu (covering the whole of Hawaii) are Filipinos majority of whom are Ilocanos on "loan" agreement with the Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia (Vigan, Ilocos Sur) in the Philippines. Some of the more prominent ones I met were Fr. Pascual Abaya of the Cathedral in downtown Honolulu and Fr. Ferdinand Rabaya of St. Therese of the Child Jesus Pro Cathedral along School Street.
Special Encounters with Manong Julio and Manang Rosing
For some reasons, however, it was among the less-prominent and the ordinary Ilocanos in the streets where I found inspiration for my spirit to counteract my longings for family and home. Such people were "Manong Julio" and "Manang Rosing" (not their real names), two elderly Ilocanos I met and befriended in the course of my daily trips to the main bus stop a few blocks away from my apartment.
My first meeting with Manong Julio was at the bus stop; but no, he was not waiting for the bus like me. He was rummaging through the garbage bin for empty plastic bottles and discarded softdrink cans. I understood even then that he would bring these to the recycling center to exchange them for cash later.
Manong Julio looked much older than his age which he claimed to be 60. His face and skin were dark from long exposure under the sun. His salt and pepper hair were more salty than peppery. But he did not look at all like the garbage people I knew back in the Philippines. He was clean shaven, dressed neatly in a t-shirt with collar, denim pants and rubber shoes.
As we talked in Ilocano, he related to me that he came to Honolulu alone at first. He then petitioned for his wife and their three minor children some years back when he obtained his citizenship. Left behind in their hometown of Bangued, Abra were four other children who did not meet the cut-off age when their petition was approved. Manong Julio himself had been petitioned by his older brother, a US army veteran who had fought during World War II.
At first, Manong Julio lived with his brother's family when he first arrived. Having reached only up to Grade six in the Philippines, the only job he qualified for was as a helper in his brother's landscaping business – trimming hedges, mowing lawns, etc.
When his family arrived from the Philippines, he rented a room for the whole family. Only when the older children got jobs did they decide to rent a small two-bedroom apartment in Kalihi.
The last time I saw him, Manong Julio was still working for his brother's landscaping company together with his eldest son who was supporting himself in college. With his salary and his wife's income from selling fruits in the market plus the additional income from the recyclables that he was collecting daily after work and during his off days, Mang Julio has been able to send a maximum of 300 dollars a month to his other children back in the Philippines.
Manang Rosing's Ilocana accent gave her away when, one late afternoon, she replied to my question whether the bus going up to the valley has already gone by. "Yis, serr", she answered. Too tired to walk up through five blocks or so away to where my apartment was and faced with the prospect of just sitting there for another 40 minutes or so, I decided to engage her in conversation.
Manang Rosing who hails from Ilocos Norte in northern Philippines was probably also in her 60's. She came to Honolulu in early 2006 after spending some three years in South Carolina with a daughter and her Caucasian husband who had petitioned her to come to America to care for their children with a promise to remunerate her. Upon seeing an opportunity to work and help her other children in the Philippines, she agreed. Her plan to help her other children, however, did not materialize. Almost in tears she narrated to me how she had slaved herself caring for her grandchildren and doing all household chores for her daughter's family, but all she got in return was leftover food and hand-me-down clothes.
Manang Rosing's ordeal fortunately ended when a close friend from Honolulu convinced her to come over and gave her a cleaning job with one of her clients. She turned emotional again when she said how agonizing it was for her when she decided to leave South Carolina as she had become close to her grandchildren. The thought of her other children and grandchildren back in the Philippines, however, overruled whatever concerns she had for her American grandchildren.
At the time of our meeting, she was living in a rented room in her friend's house. She was working five times a week for different clients as a cleaning lady. On her off days, she would harvest malunggay leaves, camote tops, saluyot leaves, okra, string beans and other vegetables from their backyard, tie them up in smaller bundles and then sell them in the sidewalks in Chinatown for a dollar or two dollars each bundle. At the end of the month, she would hie off to the remittance center and send a hundred or two hundred dollars to her children in the Philippines. "Narigat ti biyag ditoy ading ko, ngem nasiyaat met" (Life is hard here, my brother, but I'm happy), she concluded her story.
Some last words.
I stayed in Honolulu for some nine months in all until I cut short my stay due to my open heart surgery. And during that period I have had the opportunity of hearing again what Salvador the taxi driver told me when I asked him whether he was Filipino or not: "No sir, I am Ilocano!"
Come to think of it now, they (Salvador and the others) actually meant that they speak Ilocano not Pilipino or Tagalog (spelled with a P, "Pilipino" is how Tagalog is commonly known in the Philippines). Thus, I do not think they meant to deny their Filipino roots or nationality at all as others have concluded.
You see, I have never met a group of Filipinos in America who are more Filipino in their values, culture, and love for family than the Ilocanos I have encountered in Honolulu.








